How to Use a Table Saw Correctly

The table saw is the centerpiece of most woodworking shops — no other tool matches its ability to make long, straight, repeatable cuts. But it's also the most dangerous power tool in the workshop. This guide covers how to use a table saw correctly, efficiently, and safely.

What Is a Table Saw Used For?

Rip cuts: Cutting boards lengthwise along the grain
Crosscuts: Cutting boards to length (with a miter gauge)
Bevel cuts: Angled cuts through the thickness of a board
Dado cuts: Grooves and rabbets (with a dado blade set)
Breaking down sheet goods: Plywood, MDF, melamine

Recommended Table Saw

The DEWALT Portable Table Saw with Stand (DWE7485WS) is an 8-1/4" jobsite saw capable of up to 48° bevel cuts — compact, portable, and powerful enough for serious DIY and professional work. Check it on Amazon →

Key Parts of a Table Saw

Blade: The spinning circular blade that rises through the table surface
Rip fence: The adjustable guide that runs parallel to the blade for rip cuts
Miter gauge: The sliding guide for crosscuts at various angles
Blade guard: The clear cover over the blade — keep it on whenever possible
Riving knife / splitter: Keeps the kerf open behind the blade to prevent kickback
Anti-kickback pawls: Teeth that grip the wood and prevent it from flying back
Blade height and bevel adjustments: Wheels or levers on the front/side of the saw

Setting Up for a Rip Cut

Set blade height: Raise the blade so it extends about 1/4" above the top of your workpiece.
Set the rip fence: Measure from the blade to the fence using a tape measure. Lock the fence.
Check the fence is parallel to the blade — a misaligned fence causes binding and kickback.
Install the blade guard and riving knife if not already in place.

How to Make a Rip Cut

Put on safety goggles and hearing protection. DEWALT Goggles → | HANDLANDY Gloves →
Stand to the left or right of the blade — never directly behind it (kickback direction).
Start the saw and let it reach full speed.
Feed the board into the blade with steady, even pressure against the fence.
Use a push stick when the board narrows to less than 6" from the blade — never use your fingers.
Feed the board all the way through until it clears the blade completely.
Turn off the saw before retrieving the offcut from behind the blade.

How to Make a Crosscut

Use the miter gauge — never use the rip fence for crosscuts (causes binding).
Set the miter gauge to 90° (or your desired angle).
Hold the board firmly against the miter gauge face.
Feed the board and gauge together through the blade.

Blade Height: Why It Matters

Set the blade to extend only 1/4" above the workpiece. A higher blade exposes more blade, increases kickback risk, and creates a more dangerous cut. Lower blade = safer cut.

Safety Rules

Always use a push stick for narrow rip cuts
Never use the rip fence and miter gauge simultaneously
Never reach over or behind the spinning blade
Stand to the side, never directly behind the blade
Keep the riving knife installed at all times
Wait for the blade to stop completely before making adjustments
Never cut freehand — always use the fence or miter gauge

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Setting the blade too high
Using the fence for crosscuts (causes binding and kickback)
Removing the riving knife or blade guard
Reaching behind the blade while it's spinning
Not using a push stick on narrow cuts
Standing directly behind the blade

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