How to Remove Wallpaper: The Complete Step-by-Step Guide

Removing wallpaper is one of those jobs that sounds simple but has a few critical techniques that make the difference between a smooth process and a frustrating one that damages the wall. Done correctly, wallpaper removal leaves a clean wall ready for paint or new wallpaper. Done incorrectly, it tears the drywall paper facing and creates a wall that requires significant repair before painting. This guide covers the complete process.

Before You Start: Identify Your Wall Type

The wall type significantly affects the removal approach:

• Drywall (gypsum board) — The most common wall type in homes built after 1950. Drywall has a paper facing that can be damaged by excessive moisture or aggressive scraping. Work carefully and don't over-soak.
• Plaster walls — Common in homes built before 1950. Plaster is more durable than drywall and tolerates more moisture. However, if the plaster is old or damaged, aggressive scraping can crack it.
• Skim-coated drywall — Drywall with a thin coat of joint compound over the paper facing. More durable than standard drywall for wallpaper removal.

If you're not sure which type you have, tap the wall — drywall sounds hollow, plaster sounds solid.

What You'll Need

• Wallpaper scoring tool — Zinsser Wallpaper Scoring Tool — perforates the wallpaper surface to allow remover solution to penetrate through to the adhesive. Essential for vinyl-coated wallpaper that resists moisture penetration. Use carefully on drywall — pressing too hard damages the drywall paper facing.
• Wallpaper remover solution — WP Chomp World's Best Wallpaper Stripper (32 oz) — citrus-based formula that dissolves wallpaper paste without harsh chemicals. Spray on, wait, and the wallpaper releases. More effective than plain water and safer than chemical strippers.
• Putty knife set — The Rerdeim 5-Piece Putty Knife Set for scraping wallpaper off the wall. Use a wide, flexible putty knife for large sections and a narrow knife for tight areas.
• Sanding sponge set — The 24-Piece Sanding Sponge Set for smoothing the wall after removal and after repairs.
• Joint compound — DAP All-Purpose Joint Compound for repairing any drywall damage after removal.
• Drop cloths — Plastic Drop Cloths (6-Pack) to protect floors — wallpaper removal is very messy. Cover the entire floor and tape the edges to the baseboard.
• Pre-taped masking film — The Pre-Taped Masking Film for covering electrical outlets and switch plates.
• Painter's tape — Premium Painter's Tape (4-Roll Pack) for protecting trim and baseboards.
• Sponge and bucket — For applying remover solution and wiping residual paste from the wall.
• Garden sprayer or spray bottle — For applying remover solution to large areas efficiently.

Step 1: Prepare the Room

Turn off the electricity to the room. Wallpaper removal involves significant moisture. Turn off the circuit breaker for the room before starting. Cover all electrical outlets and switch plates with pre-taped masking film.

Protect the floor thoroughly. Lay drop cloths over the entire floor and tape the edges to the baseboard. Wallpaper removal produces large amounts of wet wallpaper scraps and dripping water — floor protection is essential.

Protect trim and baseboards. Apply painter's tape to all trim and baseboards. The remover solution can damage wood finishes.

Remove all furniture from the room. Wallpaper removal is messy and requires access to all walls. Remove furniture or push it to the center and cover with drop cloths.

Step 2: Test a Small Area First

Before committing to the full removal process, test a small area to understand what you're dealing with:

1. Try peeling a corner of the wallpaper by hand. If it peels off in large strips, you may have strippable wallpaper that comes off dry.
2. If it doesn't peel dry, score a small area with the Zinsser scoring tool, apply WP Chomp, wait 5 minutes, and try scraping.
3. Note how the wall responds — does the drywall paper tear? Does the plaster crack? Adjust your technique accordingly.

Step 3: Score the Wallpaper

Scoring perforates the wallpaper surface to allow the remover solution to penetrate through to the adhesive layer. This step is especially important for vinyl-coated wallpaper, which is moisture-resistant and won't absorb the remover without scoring.

Use the Zinsser scoring tool. Roll the Zinsser scoring tool over the wallpaper surface in overlapping passes. Apply moderate pressure — enough to perforate the wallpaper but not so much that you damage the drywall paper facing underneath. On drywall, err on the side of lighter pressure.

Score the entire wall section before applying remover. Score a manageable section (one wall or half a wall) before applying remover. Don't score the entire room at once — work in sections.

Step 4: Apply Wallpaper Remover

Mix and apply WP Chomp. Follow the label instructions for WP Chomp Wallpaper Stripper. Apply generously to the scored wallpaper using a garden sprayer or sponge. The wallpaper should be thoroughly wet — not just damp.

Allow to soak. Allow the remover to soak for 5–10 minutes. The remover needs time to penetrate through the scoring holes and dissolve the adhesive. Don't rush this step — insufficient soaking time is the most common cause of difficult removal and wall damage from aggressive scraping.

Work in manageable sections. Apply remover to one section at a time — typically 4–6 feet wide. Don't apply remover to the entire room at once. The remover works best when the wallpaper is still wet, and large areas dry out before you can scrape them.

Step 5: Scrape the Wallpaper

Start scraping after the soak time. Use the wide putty knife from your Rerdeim set to scrape the wallpaper off the wall. Hold the knife at a low angle (about 30 degrees) to the wall surface. Slide the knife under the wallpaper and push forward to lift it off.

Work from the bottom up. Start scraping at the bottom of the wall and work upward. Gravity helps — the loosened wallpaper falls away from the wall rather than back onto it.

Don't force it. If the wallpaper isn't releasing easily, apply more remover and wait longer. Forcing the scraper damages the wall. The wallpaper should release with moderate pressure when properly soaked.

Re-apply remover as needed. If a section starts to dry out before you finish scraping, apply more remover and wait a few minutes before continuing.

Remove all paper and adhesive residue. After removing the main wallpaper, wipe the wall with a damp sponge to remove any remaining adhesive residue. Adhesive left on the wall prevents paint from adhering properly.

Step 6: Handle Double-Layer Wallpaper

Many older homes have multiple layers of wallpaper. The process is the same for each layer — score, soak, scrape — but requires more time and patience. Remove one layer at a time. Don't try to remove multiple layers simultaneously.

Step 7: Repair the Wall

Wallpaper removal almost always causes some wall damage — torn drywall paper, gouges from the scraper, or areas where the adhesive pulled the drywall paper off. Repair before priming and painting.

Allow the wall to dry completely. The wall must be completely dry before repair and painting — at least 24–48 hours. Painting over a damp wall causes paint adhesion problems.

Repair torn drywall paper. Apply a thin coat of DAP Joint Compound over any areas where the drywall paper is torn or damaged. Allow to dry and sand smooth with 120–150 grit from your sanding sponge set.

Skim-coat the entire wall if needed. If the wall has significant damage or texture from adhesive residue, skim-coat the entire wall with a thin layer of joint compound. This creates a smooth, uniform surface for painting. Allow to dry fully and sand smooth.

Step 8: Prime Before Painting

Always prime the wall after wallpaper removal before painting. The wall surface after removal is uneven — some areas are bare drywall, some have adhesive residue, some have joint compound repairs. Primer seals all these different surfaces and provides a uniform base for the topcoat.

Use Bulls Eye 1-2-3 Primer — it seals adhesive residue and provides excellent adhesion for the topcoat. Apply two coats for the most uniform base.

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does wallpaper removal take?
A standard bedroom (four walls) typically takes 4–8 hours for removal, plus 24–48 hours drying time, plus repair and priming time. Budget a full weekend for a complete room.

Can I use plain water instead of wallpaper remover?
Plain water works on some wallpaper but is less effective than WP Chomp, especially on vinyl-coated wallpaper. The remover solution contains agents that break down the adhesive more effectively than water alone.

What if the drywall paper tears during removal?
Stop and apply more remover — tearing usually means the wallpaper isn't wet enough. For areas where the drywall paper has already torn, repair with DAP Joint Compound after the wall dries.

Do I need to score vinyl wallpaper?
Yes — vinyl-coated wallpaper is moisture-resistant and won't absorb remover without scoring. The Zinsser scoring tool is essential for vinyl wallpaper.

Can I paint immediately after removing wallpaper?
No — the wall must dry completely (24–48 hours), be repaired, and be primed before painting. Painting over a damp or unprimed wall after wallpaper removal causes adhesion problems and uneven finish.

Final Thoughts

Wallpaper removal is a messy, time-consuming job — but the result is a clean wall ready for a fresh start. The keys are: protect the floor thoroughly with drop cloths, score vinyl wallpaper with the Zinsser scoring tool, soak thoroughly with WP Chomp, work in manageable sections, and don't force the scraper. Allow the wall to dry completely, repair damage with DAP Joint Compound, and prime with Bulls Eye 1-2-3 before painting. Done right, the wall after removal is better than painting over wallpaper ever could be.