How to Paint Over Wallpaper: When It Works and How to Do It Right

Painting over wallpaper is one of those topics where the honest answer is: it's possible, but removing the wallpaper first is almost always better. That said, there are situations where painting over wallpaper is the practical choice — when the wallpaper is firmly adhered, when removal would damage the drywall, or when you need a quick solution. This guide covers when painting over wallpaper works, how to do it correctly, and when to remove it instead.

The Honest Assessment: Remove or Paint Over?

Remove the wallpaper if:

• The wallpaper is peeling, bubbling, or loosely adhered in any area
• There are multiple layers of wallpaper
• You want a perfectly smooth wall surface
• You're doing a high-quality paint job where seams showing through is unacceptable
• The wallpaper is on drywall that's in good condition (removal is usually possible without major damage)

Paint over the wallpaper if:

• The wallpaper is firmly adhered with no peeling or bubbling anywhere
• The wallpaper is on plaster walls (removal often damages plaster)
• There's only one layer of wallpaper
• You need a quick solution and can accept that seams may show slightly
• The wallpaper is a smooth, non-textured type

If you decide to paint over wallpaper, understand that seams will likely show through the paint to some degree, and future wallpaper removal will be significantly harder because the paint seals the wallpaper to the wall.

What You'll Need

• Oil-based or shellac primer — Bulls Eye 1-2-3 Primer Sealer — critical for painting over wallpaper. Water-based primer applied directly to wallpaper can activate the wallpaper paste, causing the wallpaper to bubble and peel. Bulls Eye 1-2-3 seals the wallpaper without activating the paste.
• Multi-surface primer — INSL-X Prime All Multi-Surface Primer as an alternative for firmly adhered wallpaper in good condition.
• Joint compound — DAP All-Purpose Joint Compound for skim-coating over seams and texture to minimize their visibility through the paint.
• Floetrol — Floetrol Paint Additive for the topcoat.
• Paint roller kit — The Bates Paint Roller Kit (19 pcs) with 3/8" nap roller covers.
• Angled brush set — The Pro Grade Paint Brush Set (5 pcs) for cutting in and detail work.
• Sanding sponge set — The 24-Piece Sanding Sponge Set for smoothing seams and between coats.
• Putty knife set — The Rerdeim 5-Piece Putty Knife Set for applying joint compound to seams.
• Seam repair adhesive — Wallpaper seam repair adhesive for re-gluing any lifting seams before painting.
• Drop cloths — Plastic Drop Cloths (6-Pack) to protect floors.
• Painter's tape — Premium Painter's Tape (4-Roll Pack) for masking trim and ceiling.

Step 1: Assess and Repair the Wallpaper

Check every inch for loose areas. Go over the entire wall pressing firmly on the wallpaper. Any area that feels loose, bubbles, or makes a hollow sound is not firmly adhered. These areas must be fixed before painting — paint over loose wallpaper will peel with the wallpaper.

Re-glue lifting seams and edges. Apply wallpaper seam repair adhesive under any lifting seams or edges. Press firmly and allow to dry completely. Seams that aren't firmly adhered will lift further when wet primer is applied.

Trim any loose or torn edges. Use a sharp utility knife to trim any torn or frayed wallpaper edges flush with the wall. Loose edges will show through paint and can catch on the roller during painting.

If any area can't be firmly re-adhered, reconsider painting over. Loose wallpaper that can't be re-glued means the wallpaper needs to come off. Painting over it will fail.

Step 2: Skim-Coat Seams (Optional but Recommended)

Wallpaper seams are the most visible problem when painting over wallpaper. Skim-coating the seams with joint compound before priming minimizes their visibility in the finished paint job.

Apply joint compound over seams. Use a flexible putty knife from your Rerdeim set to apply a thin coat of DAP Joint Compound over each seam. Feather the edges out 2–3 inches on each side of the seam to create a gradual transition.

Allow to dry completely. Joint compound must dry fully before sanding — at least 24 hours. It will lighten in color as it dries.

Sand smooth. Sand the dried joint compound with 120–150 grit from your sanding sponge set, then smooth with 180–220 grit. The goal is a gradual transition that's not visible as a ridge. Wipe away all dust.

Apply a second coat if needed. Joint compound shrinks as it dries. A second thin coat over any remaining depressions, allowed to dry and sanded smooth, produces a flatter result.

Step 3: Apply Oil-Based or Shellac Primer

This is the most critical step when painting over wallpaper. Water-based primer applied directly to wallpaper can activate the water-soluble wallpaper paste, causing the wallpaper to bubble, wrinkle, and peel from the wall. Bulls Eye 1-2-3 seals the wallpaper surface without introducing enough moisture to activate the paste.

Apply primer with a roller. Use the 3/8" nap roller from your Bates kit to apply primer to the wallpaper. Work quickly and don't over-roll — excessive roller passes deposit more moisture and increase the risk of activating the paste.

Cut in with a brush. Use the angled brush from your Pro Grade set for edges and corners. Apply quickly and don't go back over areas that have started to dry.

Watch for bubbling. As the primer dries, watch for any areas where the wallpaper bubbles or wrinkles. Small bubbles often flatten as the primer dries. Large bubbles indicate the wallpaper paste is activating — these areas may need to be cut, re-glued, and allowed to dry before continuing.

Apply two coats of primer. Allow the first coat to dry fully (1–2 hours). Apply a second coat. Two coats of primer seal the wallpaper more thoroughly and provide a more uniform base for the topcoat.

Step 4: Apply the Topcoat

Add Floetrol. Add Floetrol to your topcoat paint for better flow and fewer marks.

Apply with a roller. Use the 3/8" nap roller to apply the topcoat. Work in sections, maintaining a wet edge. Don't over-roll — excessive roller passes can still activate wallpaper paste even through primer.

Apply two coats. Allow the first coat to dry fully. Sand lightly with 220 grit if needed. Apply the second coat.

Inspect for seam visibility. After the first topcoat dries, inspect the wall in raking light (light from the side) to check seam visibility. If seams are still visible, apply additional joint compound, allow to dry, sand, and apply another topcoat. Eliminating seam visibility completely often requires multiple rounds of skim-coating and painting.

Managing Expectations

Even with perfect technique, painting over wallpaper has limitations:

• Seams will likely show to some degree — especially in raking light. Multiple rounds of skim-coating reduce but rarely eliminate seam visibility completely.
• Textured wallpaper shows through paint — the texture of the wallpaper telegraphs through the paint. Smooth wallpaper is much easier to paint over than textured.
• Future removal is harder — paint seals the wallpaper to the wall, making future removal significantly more difficult and potentially damaging to the drywall.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use water-based primer over wallpaper?
It's risky. Water-based primer can activate the wallpaper paste and cause bubbling. Bulls Eye 1-2-3 is water-based but formulated to minimize moisture penetration. Apply quickly and don't over-roll. Oil-based or shellac primer is safer for wallpaper with unknown paste type.

Will seams show through paint?
Almost certainly to some degree, especially in raking light. Skim-coating seams with DAP Joint Compound before priming minimizes but rarely eliminates seam visibility. If perfectly smooth walls are required, remove the wallpaper.

How many coats of paint does wallpaper need?
Two coats of primer plus two coats of topcoat is the minimum. Additional rounds of skim-coating and painting may be needed to minimize seam visibility.

Is it better to remove wallpaper or paint over it?
Removing wallpaper is almost always better for the long-term result. Painting over wallpaper is a compromise that accepts visible seams and makes future removal harder. Remove the wallpaper if the drywall underneath is in good condition and you want a high-quality result.

What if the wallpaper bubbles when I apply primer?
Small bubbles often flatten as the primer dries — wait and see before taking action. Large bubbles indicate the paste is activating. Cut the bubble with a utility knife, apply seam adhesive, press flat, and allow to dry before continuing.

Final Thoughts

Painting over wallpaper is a compromise — it's faster than removal but produces a less perfect result. If you proceed, the keys are: repair all loose seams and edges first, skim-coat seams with DAP Joint Compound, apply Bulls Eye 1-2-3 Primer to seal the wallpaper without activating the paste, and apply two coats of topcoat with Floetrol. Manage expectations — seams will likely show to some degree. For a high-quality result, remove the wallpaper first. See our guide on how to remove wallpaper for the complete removal process.