How to Paint Brick: Interior and Exterior Brick Painting Guide

Painting brick is one of the most dramatic transformations you can make to a home — a dark, dated brick fireplace becomes a bright focal point, and painted exterior brick gives a home a completely fresh look. But brick painting is permanent — once painted, removing the paint is extremely difficult. This guide covers everything you need to know before you start, and the correct technique for a durable, professional result.

Before You Paint: Is Brick Painting Right for Your Situation?

Brick painting is a permanent decision. Consider these factors before starting:

• Painted brick is very difficult to reverse. Paint penetrates into the porous brick and mortar. Removing it requires sandblasting or chemical stripping — both expensive and potentially damaging to the brick. Be certain before you paint.
• Brick must be dry. Brick with moisture problems (efflorescence, water infiltration) should not be painted until the moisture source is fixed. Paint traps moisture in the brick, which causes the paint to peel and can damage the brick over time.
• New brick should cure for at least a year before painting. New brick contains alkalis that can cause paint to fail. Allow new brick to cure for 12 months before painting.
• Exterior brick painting requires breathable paint. Exterior brick must be painted with a breathable (vapor-permeable) masonry paint that allows moisture vapor to escape. Non-breathable paint traps moisture and causes peeling and spalling.

What You'll Need

• Masonry primer — INSL-X Prime All Multi-Surface Primer for interior brick. For exterior brick, use a masonry-specific primer rated for exterior use. Primer is essential for brick — it seals the porous surface and provides a uniform base for the topcoat.
• Bonding primer (for slick or previously painted brick) — INSL-X Stix Acrylic Bonding Primer for brick that has been previously painted or sealed.
• Thick nap roller — The Bates Paint Roller Kit (19 pcs) — use the 3/4" or 1" nap roller covers for brick. The thick nap is essential for getting paint into the texture of the brick and the mortar joints. A thin nap roller skips over the texture and leaves unpainted areas.
• Angled brush set — The Pro Grade Paint Brush Set (5 pcs) for working paint into mortar joints and corners that the roller can't reach.
• Paint tray set — The Bates Paint Tray Set (12 pcs) with disposable liners.
• Drop cloths — Plastic Drop Cloths (6-Pack) to protect floors and surrounding surfaces.
• Pre-taped masking film — The Pre-Taped Masking Film for covering large adjacent surfaces like mantels and floors.
• Painter's tape — Premium Painter's Tape (4-Roll Pack) for masking adjacent surfaces.
• Wire brush — For cleaning loose mortar, efflorescence, and debris from the brick surface before painting.
• Extension pole — The Telescopic Extension Pole for reaching upper sections of brick walls and fireplaces.

Step 1: Assess and Prep the Brick

Check for moisture problems. Look for white powdery deposits (efflorescence) on the brick surface — this indicates moisture moving through the brick. Fix the moisture source before painting. Painting over efflorescence causes the paint to peel.

Clean the brick thoroughly. Brush the brick surface with a wire brush to remove loose mortar, efflorescence, dirt, and debris. For interior brick fireplaces, clean soot and creosote deposits with a fireplace cleaner before painting. Allow to dry completely — brick must be completely dry before priming.

Repair damaged mortar joints. Check the mortar joints for cracks or missing mortar. Repair with mortar mix before painting. Allow repairs to cure for at least 24 hours before priming.

Protect surrounding surfaces. Apply painter's tape to adjacent surfaces. Cover floors and furniture with drop cloths. Use pre-taped masking film for large areas like mantels.

Step 2: Apply Primer

Primer is non-negotiable for brick painting. Brick is extremely porous — paint applied directly to unprimed brick soaks in unevenly, requires many more coats for coverage, and doesn't bond as durably as paint over primer.

Apply primer with a thick nap roller. Use the 3/4" or 1" nap roller from your Bates kit to apply INSL-X Prime All to the brick surface. The thick nap pushes primer into the texture of the brick and the mortar joints.

Work primer into mortar joints with a brush. After rolling, use the 2" angled brush from your Pro Grade set to work primer into any mortar joints or textured areas the roller missed. Mortar joints are recessed and require brush work for full coverage.

Apply two coats of primer. Brick is so porous that one coat of primer is often insufficient. Apply two coats, allowing full drying between coats (follow the primer label). Two coats of primer significantly reduce the number of topcoats needed for full coverage.

Allow to dry fully. Allow the primer to dry completely before applying the topcoat — at least 2–4 hours, or as specified on the label.

Step 3: Apply the Topcoat

Choose the right paint. For interior brick, any quality latex paint works. For exterior brick, use a breathable masonry paint specifically rated for exterior masonry surfaces. The paint must be vapor-permeable to allow moisture to escape from the brick.

Apply with a thick nap roller. Use the 3/4" or 1" nap roller to apply the topcoat. Load the roller well — brick absorbs significantly more paint than drywall. Roll in overlapping strokes, working the paint into the brick texture.

Work paint into mortar joints with a brush. After rolling each section, use the angled brush to work paint into the mortar joints. The roller deposits paint on the brick faces but often misses the recessed mortar joints. Brush work in the joints is essential for full coverage.

Apply two to three coats. Brick typically requires two to three coats of topcoat for full, even coverage. The porous surface absorbs paint heavily, especially on the first coat. Allow full drying between coats.

Check coverage carefully. After each coat, inspect the brick carefully for missed spots — especially in mortar joints, texture valleys, and corners. Touch up with a brush before the coat dries.

Interior Brick: Fireplace Surrounds and Accent Walls

Interior brick painting is more forgiving than exterior because there's no weather exposure. Key considerations:

• Fireplace surrounds: Use heat-resistant paint for the firebox interior (the area directly exposed to flames). Standard latex paint is fine for the exterior surround that doesn't get direct heat. Don't paint the firebox interior with standard latex — it will burn and produce toxic fumes.
• Accent walls: Interior brick accent walls are straightforward — clean, prime with INSL-X Prime All, and apply two coats of latex paint with a thick nap roller.

Exterior Brick: Facades and Chimneys

Exterior brick painting requires more care than interior because of weather exposure:

• Use breathable masonry paint. Exterior brick must breathe — moisture vapor from inside the home passes through the brick and must be able to escape. Non-breathable paint traps this moisture, causing the paint to bubble and peel and potentially damaging the brick.
• Paint in appropriate conditions. Paint exterior brick in temperatures between 50–90°F with no rain forecast for at least 24–48 hours. Avoid painting in direct sunlight — the heat causes paint to dry too fast.
• Chimneys: Chimneys are exposed to extreme temperature changes and weather. Use a masonry paint specifically rated for chimneys and high-temperature applications.

Limewash: An Alternative to Paint

Limewash is a traditional finish for brick that produces a softer, more natural look than paint. Unlike paint, limewash is partially absorbed into the brick and allows the texture to show through. It's also more breathable than paint and easier to touch up. Limewash is applied with a brush in a thin, watery consistency and can be layered for more or less coverage.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can painted brick be unpainted?
Technically yes, but it's extremely difficult and expensive. Paint penetrates into the porous brick and mortar. Removal requires sandblasting or chemical stripping, both of which can damage the brick. Consider brick painting permanent.

How many coats of paint does brick need?
Two coats of primer plus two to three coats of topcoat is typical for full coverage on unpainted brick. Previously painted brick in good condition may need only one coat of primer and two coats of topcoat.

What color should I paint brick?
White and off-white are the most popular choices for painted brick — they brighten the space and are timeless. Gray is a popular modern choice. Dark colors (black, navy) are dramatic but show dust and dirt more. For exterior brick, consider the color of the roof, trim, and surrounding landscape.

Do I need special paint for a brick fireplace?
For the exterior surround of a fireplace (not directly exposed to flames), standard latex paint works fine. For the firebox interior (directly exposed to flames and heat), use heat-resistant paint rated for high temperatures. Never use standard latex paint inside the firebox.

How long does painted brick last?
Properly prepared and painted brick — cleaned, primed, quality topcoat — should last 15–20 years on interior surfaces and 5–10 years on exterior surfaces before needing repainting. Exterior painted brick may need touch-up sooner in harsh climates.

Final Thoughts

Painting brick is a permanent, high-impact transformation. The keys are thorough prep (clean, repair mortar, allow to dry completely), two coats of primer with INSL-X Prime All, and two to three coats of topcoat applied with a thick nap roller from the Bates kit. Work paint into mortar joints with the Pro Grade angled brush after each roller pass. For exterior brick, use breathable masonry paint. For fireplace interiors, use heat-resistant paint. Done right, painted brick looks clean, bright, and lasts for decades.