How to Install Shiplap Wall

Shiplap has become one of the most popular wall treatments in modern interior design — thanks in large part to its clean, horizontal lines and that signature small gap between boards that gives it such a distinctive look. Whether you're going for a farmhouse, coastal, or modern aesthetic, shiplap adds warmth and texture to any room. Here's how to install it.

What You'll Need

• Peel-and-stick shiplap wallpaper: CiCiwind Peel and Stick Shiplap Wallpaper, White, 78.7"x17.7"
• Wallpaper smoothing tool: Art3d Smoothing Tool Kit for Peel and Stick Wallpaper
• Miter saw: SKIL 10" Dual Bevel Sliding Compound Miter Saw
• Brad nailer: Metabo HPT Brad Nailer 18 Gauge NT50AE2
• Finish nails: Mr. Pen Nail Assortment Kit, 600 Pcs
• Stud finder: Stud Finder Wall Scanner 5-in-1
• Laser level: Laser Level Line Tool by AikTryee
• Construction adhesive: Loctite PL Premium Construction Adhesive
• Caulk gun kit: Professional Caulk Gun Kit 5-in-1
• Silicone caulk: GE Advanced Silicone Caulk, Clear
• Wood filler: BONCART Wood Filler White, Paintable
• Painter's tape: ScotchBlue Original Painter's Tape

Method 1: Peel-and-Stick Shiplap Wallpaper (Easiest)

For a renter-friendly or quick-install option, CiCiwind Peel and Stick Shiplap Wallpaper gives a realistic shiplap look without any cutting or nailing. Use the Art3d smoothing tool kit to apply it bubble-free. Start at the top of the wall, peel the backing, align carefully, and smooth from center outward. Trim excess at edges with a sharp knife.

Method 2: Real Wood Shiplap (Full DIY)

Step 1: Find the Studs

Use the stud finder to locate all wall studs and mark them from floor to ceiling. Shiplap boards must be nailed into studs for a secure installation.

Step 2: Establish a Level Starting Line

Use the laser level to mark a perfectly level line at the height of your first board. Starting level is critical — any error compounds as you work up the wall.

Step 3: Cut the Boards

Cut shiplap boards to length with the SKIL miter saw. For a standard wall, boards run horizontally from corner to corner. Stagger the end joints between rows so they don't all line up vertically.

Step 4: Install the First Row

Apply a bead of Loctite PL construction adhesive to the back of the first board. Align with your level line and nail into every stud with the Metabo HPT brad nailer. Use a nickel as a spacer to create the signature 1/16" gap between boards.

Step 5: Continue Up the Wall

Work row by row up the wall, maintaining consistent spacing with the nickel spacer. Check level every few rows with the laser level. Cut around outlets and switches with a jigsaw.

Step 6: Fill and Finish

Fill nail holes with BONCART wood filler. Caulk the edges where shiplap meets the ceiling, floor, and adjacent walls. Paint with your chosen color — white is classic, but shiplap looks stunning in navy, sage green, or black too.

Pro Tips

• Acclimate real wood shiplap in the room for 48–72 hours before installation to prevent warping after install.
• Use a nickel coin as a consistent spacer between boards for the authentic shiplap gap.
• Paint the wall behind the shiplap the same color as the boards before installing — the gaps will look intentional rather than unfinished.
• For bathrooms, use moisture-resistant MDF or PVC shiplap instead of real wood.