How to Fix a Leaky Faucet: Ball, Cartridge, Ceramic Disc, and Compression Types

A dripping faucet is one of those problems that's easy to ignore — until you realize that a faucet dripping once per second wastes over 3,000 gallons of water per year. Most faucet leaks are caused by a worn internal component that costs a few dollars to replace and takes under an hour to fix. The key is identifying your faucet type, because the repair approach is completely different for each of the four common faucet designs.

The Four Faucet Types: Identify Yours First

Before buying any parts or starting any repair, identify your faucet type. The internal mechanism determines what's worn and how to fix it.

• Ball faucet — Single handle that rotates over a rounded ball-shaped cap. Common in kitchens. The handle moves in all directions to control both temperature and flow. Identified by the dome-shaped cap under the handle.
• Cartridge faucet — Single or double handle. The handle moves up and down (or rotates) to control flow. Inside is a cartridge — a self-contained unit that controls water flow. Very common in both kitchens and bathrooms. The most straightforward to repair.
• Ceramic disc faucet — Single lever handle that moves side to side for temperature and up and down for flow. Inside is a wide cylindrical ceramic disc cartridge. Very durable — ceramic discs rarely wear out but can crack or accumulate mineral deposits.
• Compression faucet — Two separate handles (hot and cold) that you tighten to stop water flow. The oldest and most common type in older homes. Identified by the fact that you tighten the handle to turn off the water. Leaks are caused by worn rubber washers.

Where Is the Leak Coming From?

The leak location helps confirm the cause:

• Drip from the spout — The internal valve mechanism is worn. The repair is inside the faucet body.
• Leak around the base of the handle — The O-rings around the valve stem are worn.
• Leak under the sink at the supply connections — The supply line connections are loose or the supply line itself is cracked. Tighten the connections or replace the supply line.
• Leak around the base of the faucet — The O-rings or gasket at the faucet base are worn.

What You'll Need

• Faucet repair kit — Danco Complete Faucet Repair Kit — includes O-rings, washers, and seats in multiple sizes for compression and ball faucet repairs. A comprehensive kit that covers most repair scenarios without needing to know exact part sizes in advance.
• Replacement cartridge — For cartridge faucets, bring the old cartridge to a hardware store or search the faucet brand and model number online to find the exact replacement. Cartridges are brand and model-specific.
• Plumber's grease — Plumber's Silicone Grease for lubricating O-rings and cartridges during reassembly. Prevents premature wear and makes reassembly easier.
• Adjustable wrench and basin wrench — For removing packing nuts and supply line connections.
• Screwdrivers (flathead and Phillips) — For removing handle screws.
• Allen wrench set — Many modern faucet handles are secured with Allen (hex) screws hidden under decorative caps.
• Needle-nose pliers — For removing cartridges and small components.

Before Any Repair: Turn Off the Water Supply

Always turn off the water supply before opening any faucet. The shut-off valves are under the sink — turn them clockwise until they stop. Turn on the faucet to release any remaining pressure and drain the supply lines. Place a towel in the sink to catch any drips and to prevent small parts from falling down the drain.

Fix 1: Compression Faucet (Two-Handle, Older Style)

Compression faucets leak from the spout when the rubber washer at the bottom of the valve stem wears out. The washer is compressed against a seat when you tighten the handle — over time, the washer wears and no longer seals completely.

Step 1: Remove the handle. Pry off the decorative cap on top of the handle to expose the screw. Remove the screw and pull the handle off.

Step 2: Remove the packing nut. Use an adjustable wrench to unscrew the packing nut (the large nut below the handle). Turn counterclockwise.

Step 3: Remove the valve stem. Pull the valve stem straight up out of the faucet body. At the bottom of the stem, you'll see a rubber washer held by a brass screw.

Step 4: Replace the washer. Remove the brass screw and the old washer. Select a matching replacement washer from your Danco repair kit. Install the new washer and replace the brass screw.

Step 5: Inspect and replace O-rings. While the stem is out, inspect the O-rings on the stem body. If they're cracked or flattened, replace them with matching O-rings from the kit. Lubricate the new O-rings with plumber's silicone grease before reinstalling.

Step 6: Reassemble and test. Reinstall the stem, packing nut, and handle. Turn on the water supply and test. The drip should be eliminated.

Fix 2: Cartridge Faucet (Single or Double Handle)

Cartridge faucets are the most common modern faucet type and the easiest to repair — the entire cartridge is replaced as a unit.

Step 1: Remove the handle. Pry off the decorative cap to expose the handle screw (often an Allen screw). Remove the screw and pull the handle off. Some handles have a retaining clip or nut beneath the handle — remove these as well.

Step 2: Remove the cartridge. The cartridge is a cylindrical unit inside the faucet body. It may be held by a retaining clip (remove with needle-nose pliers) or simply press-fit into the body. Pull the cartridge straight up to remove. Note the orientation — the cartridge must be reinstalled in the same direction.

Step 3: Identify the replacement cartridge. Take the old cartridge to a hardware store or search the faucet brand and model number online. Cartridges are brand-specific — a Moen cartridge won't fit a Delta faucet. Most major brands (Moen, Delta, Kohler, Price Pfister) have readily available replacement cartridges.

Step 4: Install the new cartridge. Lubricate the new cartridge with plumber's silicone grease. Insert in the same orientation as the old cartridge. Reinstall any retaining clips or nuts.

Step 5: Reassemble and test. Reinstall the handle and turn on the water supply. Test for leaks and confirm the hot/cold orientation is correct — if reversed, remove the cartridge and rotate 180 degrees.

Fix 3: Ball Faucet (Single Handle, Kitchen)

Ball faucets have multiple small components that wear out — springs, seats, O-rings, and the ball itself. A ball faucet repair kit specific to your faucet brand is the most efficient approach.

Step 1: Remove the handle. Loosen the set screw under the handle with an Allen wrench. Remove the handle, then the cap and collar beneath it.

Step 2: Remove the ball assembly. Use needle-nose pliers to remove the cam, packing, and ball. Beneath the ball, use a screwdriver to remove the springs and rubber seats from the two inlet holes.

Step 3: Replace all worn components. Replace the springs, seats, O-rings, and ball with new components from your repair kit. Lubricate all O-rings and rubber components with plumber's silicone grease.

Step 4: Reassemble. Reinstall the ball (aligning the slot with the pin in the faucet body), cam, packing, cap, collar, and handle. Turn on the water supply and test.

Fix 4: Ceramic Disc Faucet (Single Lever)

Ceramic disc faucets are very durable — the ceramic discs themselves rarely crack. Most leaks are caused by mineral deposits on the disc surface or worn O-rings around the cartridge.

Step 1: Remove the handle and cartridge. Remove the handle screw and handle. Unscrew the cartridge retaining nut and lift out the ceramic disc cartridge.

Step 2: Clean the discs. Inspect the ceramic discs for cracks (replace if cracked) or mineral deposits (clean with white vinegar and a soft cloth). Never use abrasive cleaners on ceramic discs — they scratch easily and a scratched disc won't seal.

Step 3: Replace O-rings. Replace the O-rings around the cartridge body with matching O-rings from your repair kit. Lubricate with silicone grease.

Step 4: Reassemble and test. Reinstall the cartridge, retaining nut, and handle. Turn on the water supply slowly — ceramic disc faucets can crack if the water pressure is restored too quickly. Open the faucet handle first, then slowly open the shut-off valves.

Pro Tips for Faucet Repairs

Photograph before disassembly. Take photos of the faucet internals before removing any components. This makes reassembly much easier and prevents incorrect orientation of cartridges and other directional components.

Bring the old part to the hardware store. For washers, O-rings, and cartridges, bringing the old part ensures you get an exact match. Sizes vary significantly between brands and models.

Replace all O-rings while you're in there. If you're replacing a cartridge or washer, replace all the O-rings in the faucet at the same time. O-rings are inexpensive and replacing them all prevents future leaks from the ones you didn't replace.

Don't overtighten. Overtightening packing nuts and supply line connections is a common cause of cracked fittings and new leaks. Hand-tight plus 1/4 to 1/2 turn with a wrench is sufficient for most faucet connections.

Check the aerator. If the faucet drips from the spout but the internal components seem fine, check the aerator — the screen at the tip of the spout. A clogged aerator can cause back-pressure that forces water past a marginally worn seal. Unscrew the aerator and clean or replace it.

Frequently Asked Questions

How much water does a dripping faucet waste?
A faucet dripping once per second wastes approximately 3,000 gallons per year. A faster drip wastes proportionally more. Fixing a dripping faucet typically saves $20–50 per year on water bills, and the repair parts cost under $20 in most cases.

How do I know what type of faucet I have?
Look at the handle configuration and movement: two handles that tighten = compression; single handle that moves up/down = cartridge; single handle over a dome cap = ball; single lever that moves side-to-side and up/down = ceramic disc. If unsure, look up the faucet brand and model number (usually on the faucet body or in the original documentation).

Can I fix a leaky faucet without turning off the water?
No — always turn off the water supply before opening any faucet. Working on a faucet with the water on will result in water spraying everywhere when you remove internal components.

My faucet leaks at the base, not the spout — what's the fix?
Leaks at the base of the faucet are caused by worn O-rings around the faucet body. The repair requires removing the faucet from the sink, replacing the O-rings, and reinstalling. This is more involved than a spout drip repair but uses the same O-rings from your Danco repair kit.

I replaced the cartridge but the faucet still drips — what next?
Check that the cartridge is installed in the correct orientation — an upside-down or reversed cartridge won't seal properly. Also check the O-rings around the cartridge body and the valve seat inside the faucet body for damage.

Final Thoughts

A leaky faucet is one of the most cost-effective home repairs you can make — the parts cost under $20, the repair takes under an hour, and the water savings pay for the repair within weeks. The key is identifying your faucet type first, then getting the right replacement part. For compression faucets, a washer from the Danco repair kit is all you need. For cartridge faucets, the brand-specific replacement cartridge is the fix. Lubricate all rubber components with silicone grease during reassembly, don't overtighten, and test slowly — and most faucet leaks are fixed permanently on the first attempt.