How to Wash Raw Denim: The Complete Care Guide

Raw denim is unlike any other fabric in your wardrobe. It's unwashed, untreated, and stiff when new — and it develops unique, personalized fade patterns over months of wear that no factory process can replicate. But washing raw denim incorrectly can destroy those hard-earned fades and cause dramatic shrinkage. Here's exactly how to wash raw denim the right way.

What Is Raw Denim?

Raw denim (also called dry denim or unwashed denim) is denim that hasn't been pre-washed or treated after dyeing. It's stiff, deeply indigo-colored, and will shrink and fade in very specific ways based on how you wear it. This is what makes raw denim special — the fades are yours alone, shaped by your body and lifestyle.

When Should You First Wash Raw Denim?

This is the most debated question in the raw denim community. The general consensus:

Denim purists: Wait at least 6 months — ideally 12 months or longer — before the first wash. The longer you wait, the more defined and personalized your fade patterns will be.
Practical approach: Wash after 3–6 months, or when the jeans are visibly dirty or smelling strongly.
Minimum: Most raw denim experts recommend waiting at least 3 months before the first wash to allow initial fade patterns to set.

How to Wash Raw Denim: Step by Step

Step 1: Spot clean first
Before committing to a full wash, spot clean any stains with a damp cloth and mild soap. This can extend the time between full washes significantly.

Step 2: Turn inside out
Always turn raw denim completely inside out before washing to protect the outer fade patterns you've worked hard to develop.

Step 3: Choose your washing method
There are three accepted methods for washing raw denim — choose based on how much shrinkage you want and how delicate your fades are.

Option A: Hand Wash (Recommended for Preserving Fades)

Fill a bathtub or large basin with cold water
Add a small amount of dark-specific detergent — The Laundress Darks Detergent is ideal: free from optical brighteners, gentle on indigo dye, and concentrated so a little goes a long way
Submerge the jeans and gently agitate by hand for 5–10 minutes
Drain and refill with cold water to rinse thoroughly
Gently press out excess water — never wring raw denim

Option B: Machine Wash (Acceptable with Precautions)

Use cold water only
Select the gentle or delicate cycle
Use a small amount of The Laundress Darks Detergent
Wash alone — raw denim bleeds heavily
Skip the spin cycle if possible, or use the lowest spin speed

Option C: Bathtub Soak While Wearing (The "Onsen" Method)

Some raw denim enthusiasts wear their jeans into a bathtub of cold water, then let them dry on their body. This method molds the jeans perfectly to your shape as they dry and minimizes disruption to fade patterns. It's unconventional but effective.

How to Dry Raw Denim

Always air dry — never put raw denim in the dryer. Heat causes significant, uneven shrinkage and destroys fade patterns
Hang by the waistband or lay flat — both work well
Pull the legs straight and smooth out any creases before drying
Keep away from direct sunlight — UV rays cause uneven fading
Raw denim takes 8–12 hours to fully air dry due to its thickness

How Much Will Raw Denim Shrink After Washing?

Raw denim shrinks significantly — this is expected and normal. Typical shrinkage:

Waist: 0.5–1.5 inches
Inseam: 1–3 inches
Overall: Varies by brand and weight of denim

Most raw denim brands account for this and recommend sizing up. Check the brand's specific shrinkage guide before buying.

How to Keep Raw Denim Fresh Between Washes

Air out after every wear — hang near an open window overnight
Spot clean stains immediately before they set
Lightly mist the inside with a 50/50 water and white vinegar spray to neutralize odor
Store hanging — never folded for long periods, which can create unwanted crease fades

Frequently Asked Questions

Can you wash raw denim in a washing machine?
Yes, but use cold water, a gentle cycle, and a dark-specific detergent. Hand washing is gentler and better preserves fade patterns.

How much does raw denim shrink?
Typically 1–3 inches in the inseam and up to 1.5 inches in the waist after the first wash. Most brands recommend sizing up to account for this.

Does raw denim bleed color?
Yes — heavily, especially in the first wash. Always wash alone and never with light-colored clothing.

How do you get the smell out of raw denim without washing?
Air out overnight near an open window, or lightly mist the inside with a diluted white vinegar spray and hang to dry.

Will washing raw denim ruin the fades?
A careful cold water wash won't ruin fades — it will slightly soften the contrast but preserve the overall pattern. Avoid hot water and the dryer, which cause uneven fading and shrinkage.

The Bottom Line

Raw denim rewards patience and careful care. Wait as long as possible before the first wash, use cold water, hand wash if you can, and always air dry. Use The Laundress Darks Detergent to protect the deep indigo color you've worked months to develop. Treat your raw denim right and it will become one of the most unique, personal pieces in your wardrobe.

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